Description

Effective Engine Oil Sludge Remover  

Designed to restore even the dirtiest petrol or diesel engine to pristine condition using a concentrate that helps thousands of people avoid costly rebuilds.

Many engines that are well within serviceable amounts of wear, run as if they’re worn out. Poor Performance is usually due to a dirty engine because it contains harmful deposits. Engine Oil Cleaner removes the grime and sludge. Leaving you engine spotless and allowing it to run without all that damaging dirt. With this application you will experience significant performance improvements.

Customer Experience Using Our Effective Product 

We have been using this flush for a considerable time in some of our older 12L Macks and Series 60 Detroit Diesels, and with great success. They had developed a fair bit of blowby and were using more oil. We find that using engine oil cleaner reduces blow-by and oil use in these older engines. We’ve even had engines with 2 million kms respond well to the Flushing Oil Concentrate.  Mack & Detroit Fleet: (Mark James, Wellmix Pty Ltd)

 Peter had spent thousands of $$$ replacing radiators, clutch fan hubs, thermostats, chemical cleaning, and more, but nothing solved his overheating. Over three years, it kept getting worse, with the temp gauge would sit 3-4mm above the ½ way mark. Every time it ran hot, the air conditioner would cut out.

After doing a web search, and finding reports to solving this problem, Peter finally tried the Flushing Oil Concentrate & Cleanpower pack.  The Overheating problem was solved and now runs at 110kph uphill, towing the quad bike trailer, the temp stays cool. Peter also reports that the il was amber clean on the dipstick after his first flush. In the past it had gone black straight away.  Nissan 4.2TD Patrol: Peter Simms, HUMPTYDOO NT

A Real-Life fix For Sludgy Diesel Engines 

Flushing Oil Concentrate is best real-life fix that perks up performance in midlife & older engines. It restores cleanliness to all the lubricated parts, including the following:

• Dirty Black Oil
• Stuck piston rings
• Sludge
• Compression loss
• Power Loss
• Oil use
• Diesel smoke
• Rough Idle
• Overheating
• Engine start problems & blowby

This effective product leaves all lubricated parts of engines, transmissions, and hydraulics in spotless condition.

• Removes sludge & hard carbon.
• Frees sticking piston rings.
• It Cuts smoke & Blowby.
• Restores power & economy.

Our flushing oil concentrate has helped our customers save thousands on rebuilds, from $4000 to $200,000, because of its long-lasting and effective results.

It’s cheap to use, a mere 250mL of this product keeps a Landcruiser or Patrol clean for at least ten oil changes.

Experience the difference by ordering yours today!

 

How to perform an engine oil flush?

If you change your own oil you can do it, because that’s basically all there is to it.

The first time you use a flushing oil concentrate, it just requires 30 minutes of fast idle on clean oil with FOC to restore pristine cleanliness to the entire crankcase.

Once you’ve restored cleanliness, you just put a very small amount in the old oil before each oil change. At around $5 per change for a Hilux, it’s so very cheap to use!

Do this every time you change the oil, and your engine will never again become gunked up.

Six easy steps to flush a diesel engine 

	Step 1. Drain the old oil out hot. That way you remove as much contaminant as possible first up & you get the best possible clean up result. Matt shows us how on his 1998 Hilux 3.0L diesel, which has 268,000 kms on it.
	Matt just purchased the Hilux, and the dealer had changed the oil about 500 kms ago. Just look how filthy it has become in such a short time! It’s pretty clear that this oil would not last its full service period. It would stain your hands by 1000kms, from my experience…and if it stains your hands, it can’t keep the engine clean!!
	Step 2. Add fresh oil to the engine. You can use a cheap oil for this part of the job. Run the engine to warm up the oil, and then add the Flushing Oil Concentrate (125mL for 10L oil capacity). The Hilux takes 6 L oil, so Matt added about 75mL Flush. When doing a diesel engine flush Landcruisers and Patrol 4.2L diesels need 125mL for a 10L sump. Series 60 Detroits need 500ml for 40L sump.
	Step 3. Run the engine at a fast idle parked up for 30 minutes. For most 4x4s, this means 1500-2000rpm. For Larger truck type motors (eg Series 60 Detroits, Cats, Macks, Cummins, etc), run at about 1200 RPM
	Well, brand new oil and Flush, and see how it looks after 30 minutes. It’s picked up all the old persistent sludge from around valve gear, oil galleries, etc, and hard baked on carbon from piston ring grooves, skirts, oil coolers etc. Black oil instantly! But the engine crankcase (the oil wetted side) is now very clean!
	Step 4.  Drop the oil again, and watch all the build up muck go out with the flush.
	Step 5. Add a good quality engine oil and new filter, and it will now easily last for the whole recommended oil service period. This is also the perfect time to add the AW10 Antiwear to the oil for added protection, and quieter running. Engines love our AW10 Antiwear! They rev more freely and run so smoothly and quietly…it’s a good feeling!
	Step 6. As a final check, make sure there are no leaks, take it for a quick run and recheck the oil level. In Matt’s case, he found it very difficult to even see the oil on the dipstick. That’s it on the left. It took a few attempts to even photograph it properly. Once you’ve got it clean, just put a small amount of FLUSH in the old oil 30 minutes before you drop it out. For the Hilux, that’s a mere 15mL an oil change. Our Engine Flush additive is so cheap and yet so effective!

In the Mid 1980s we identified the almost universal problem of very high oil soot, with small pre-combustion type diesels (e.g. 4x4s). That is, the oil gets black very quickly compared to direct injection diesels (like most large truck types diesels). Many 4×4 owners comment…”All diesels have black oil, don’t they?”

The problem is the black oil totally loses its detergency (it stains everything it touches then). Engine problems develop such as engine sludge and stuck piston rings, which causes oil use, engine compression loss, power loss, high fuel consumption , oil pressure problems, engine start problems, blow by AND even chronic overheating. That’s right, one of the oils 5 duties is to cool the engine, but it can’t do this if engine sludge restricts oil flow or the underside of pistons are coated in muck! Many modern petrol engines are now also very prone to sludging up severely.

It wasn’t until the early 1990s that our search for a solution was finally rewarded. Our diesel engine oil flush is formulated on purpose specific detergents (not solvents that can cause problems with oil seals, O-rings, and even a crankcase explosion!)

Engine Oil Flush enables owners to restore full cleanliness to their entire crankcase, removing all engine sludge and freeing stuck piston ring deposits.

How good is it? People with very dirty, thickened oil (even as soon as it is changed) often report back that the oil is so clean, they can’t see it on the dipstick. The photo below is after flushing a 3.0L diesel Hilux with 268,000kms. Normally after a service, this engine would have jet black oil straight away on the new oil. Here’s the proof…

Nowadays, a lot of modern low emission truck diesels e.g. Detroit Diesel Series 60, Cummins M11 and Signature engines, Caterpillar 3500 series engines, old Perkins, Detroit 2 strokes, Hinos, etc that can suffer sludge problems join the ranks.

Also plenty of modern petrol engines now have sludge problems due to running higher operating temperatures and longer oil change intervals. That rocker cover on the right is from a V6 Camry motor. Many sludge reports also come in concerning Avalon, Lexus, VW, BMW and in fact most modern pertol engines, since they run higher operating temperatures are more susceptible to sludge. Many car hire companies turn their fleet over so early, that they never bother with oil changes, so engine sludge build up is inevitable.

Engines not used for months, even years? Overheated engines?

In most cases the rings will be stuck since any carbon present has dried out and hardened. Well, Flush will even dissolve that and free them up again.

How much Engine Flush do I need?

4×4’s and light vehicles. The small (250mL) pack will do up to 20L of engine oil. Your typical Landcruiser diesel takes 10L oil and would need 125mL for your initial diesel oil flush. (The remainder will do a further 5 “keep clean flushes”)

For larger engines, the 1L Flush will treat up to 80L of oil. A Series 60 Detroit takes about 40L oil and needs 500mL Flush. (The remainder will do a further 5 “keep clean flushes”)

Click Here to view the Material Safety Data Sheet

Click Here to view Product Download Sheet 

Case Studies

Mitsubishi Pajero 200 000 Km’s

I have used your Flushing Oil Concentrate in my Mitsubishi Pajero with 200000k\’s on the clock. It was starting to rattle and was getting a bit concerned so I did the full flush. What came out was amazing. The oil had so much crap in it not seen before in any oil change, the engine ran smother and quieter and the car ran much better. I now use it at each 8,000k oil change. Grahame McClenaghan NSW

1HZ 290 000 Km’s

Check out this incredible Flushing Oil Concentrate BEFORE & AFTER RESULTS, sent into us by Stephan Martineau this week!  Stephan’s Toyota 1HZ had 290,000 on the clock and the oil was badly gunked up and black as all hell. After draining his existing oil and performing a flush using our Flushing Oil Concentrate and a batch of cheap oil. After 3 days of running, he couldn’t read the oil on the dipstick it was so clear! Amazing results mate, we’re bloody stoked for you!

2001 TD42 GU Patrol

Since the engine oil flush and oil change I have clocked up to just under 2000Km’s. My engine has  slightly higher performance at 120HP at the wheels; and as you can see I do take good care of my trucks engine; not too bad for nearly 209,000 Km’s. I never abuse my engine; I drive it firm at times when the need arises.

So anyway just under 2000Km’s later I decided to check the engine oil to see how well the flush went. Well when I first pulled and checked the dipstick I nearly shit myself as I thought there was no oil in the system!!! I ran my fingers up the dipstick and to my relief there was oil on it. I was just blown away by how clean the oil was after 2000Km’s; it was like I had only just changed the oil. Engine oil is still a golden colour, slight soot can be seen.

As you see in the photos there is a slight amount of contamination in the oil; but nothing like all the oil changes in the past, well done guys…

Daniel Taylor
ROCKINGHAM WA

NS Mitsubishi Pajero

Properly the best before and after shots on a  NS Mitsubishi  Pajero, The dirtiest 4M41 motor I’ve seen inside and the 1st and still only timing chain problem I’ve had in the 8 years I’ve been here. Flushing oil did a great job “   Thanks RON Motocare4wd .. www.motorcare.com.au

2011 Camry avoids engine rebuild

Hi, I have been not been a fan of any oil or fuel additives in the past.

Until one day my wife took her 2011 Toyota Camry to her Toyota dealer for a service as it was 1-2 months overdue. The car had done maybe 45K and not very hard K’s at that. It was running like a pig when she took it to them, she called me that afternoon and told me the car was stuffed and needed a new engine.

As soon as I picked myself up off the floor I called Toyota to enquire what they thought the problem may have been. They told me that there had been a bad batch or poor quality oil put through the engine and had caused the engine to fail because of “blow-by” and ring freeze.

Not knowing too much about cars and stuff mechanical, I asked a mechanic friend to have a look. He pretty much confirmed that the engine was “gunked up” and would need to be pulled down. He tested the compression and told me it was very poor in two of the four cylinders.

After doing extensive research on the same issues via the internet I came across Cost Effective Maintenance. I read their stories with doubting belief but thought “what the hell can I loose” so I ordered some of the products like the engine flush and the FTC and clean power. After using these products and changing the oil monthly for 3 months the engine made huge improvements. It was idling and not stalling when in reverse, so I kept doing what I had been doing. In 6 months the engine was back to “normal” and I have since stopped the oil changes. The oil is absolutely spotless now.

But I do keep including the two additives into the fuel at every fuel fill.

I have suggested to the good wife that she might want to run as low as possible before refueling ensuring the right dosage is maintained.

Well, since taking the car to Toyota and being told we need a new engine, we have persisted with the additives and we are now experiencing better economy than before. We once thought the Camry was quite economical at 550K’s per tank, but since the CEM products added to the fuel we now get over 600K’s pre tank and depending on the run even more.

Needles to say I have boasted the outcome to my brother and father, who are now both converts and advocates of these great products

 

Kind regards

Ivor Godsell (Melbourne)

1990 Nissan GQ Patrol 4.2 Diesel

Just wanting to give you guys a round of applause for the difference your products have made to our old 1990 Nissan GQ Patrol 4.2 Diesel.

The Flushing Oil Concentrate, sheer magic, the oil is now a clear honey colour on the dipstick and black smoke has been improved by about 75%, she still blows a little puff of smoke under hard acceleration (well as hard as a 4.2 Diesel Patrol can accelerate anyway!), but I have no doubt this will improve even more with the use of the Cleanpower Fuel Treatment and FTC Decarbonizer (still on the first tank of fuel since adding these two elements to the fuel), but I will keep you posted on this. Instantly noticeable is the increase in oil pressure and the lower temp she now runs which is a godsend because she was starting to get a little hot under the collar on hot days and longer inclines.

As a point of interest for you, I followed the instructions for the FOC and drained the original oil hot, refilled to manufacturers specs of 9.2 litres of oil and added the prescribed 125ml of FOC and when I dropped the oil after after the 30min high (1250rpm) idle I drained an incredible 14.7litres out of her, and after just 5mins the idle had gone from 1250rpm to over 1500rpm and was still climbing, forcing me to reset the idle back down to 1250rpm!

The AW10 Antiwear has improved the gear changes in the old girl out of sight, what used to be a belligerent SOB when cold is now slicker than a Parramatta Road used car salesman it has also reduced the rear diff’s very slight whine to less than a whisper, to say I am wrapped with the result thus far would be a gross understatement.  It seems to have made the old Patrol alot smoother altogether mechanically.

My wife who drives the Patrol the vast majority of the time is really impressed with the results too, so on behalf of both of us I want to thanks, and you can be assured we will be talking up the benefits of your excellent products for many years to come.

Warm regards,

Shane Cusack
Mudgee NSW

Mack & Detroit Fleet

We have been using the Flushing Oil Concentrate for a fair while now, in some of our older 12L Macks and Series 60 Detroit Diesels, and with great success. These engines had developed a fair bit of blow-by and were using more oil. We find that using the Flushing Oil Concentrate reduces blow-by and oil use in these older engines. We’ve even had engines with 2 million kms respond well to the Flushing Oil Concentrate. (Mark James, Wellmix Pty Ltd)

1995 Nissan Patrol 4.2L Diesel, with 386,000 kms

It overheated every time I turned the air conditioning on.  I have replaced the Radiator (Twice), the Fan Hub (Twice), numerous thermostats, the water pump, had the cooling system cleaned out and new batteries almost 6 monthly…but no joy!

Then, one day at the doctors surgery I saw your ad in 4WDAction, and ordered a pack of Flushing Concentrate and fuel treatment. I took the Patrol to my mechanic with instructions to follow. He dropped the oil hot, and then added fresh oil and the Flush. He then set the hand throttle at 1250RPM and let the patrol idle away. After 20 minutes, revs increased to 1650RPM. Some 2L or more of sludge was flushed out, judging by the volume of dirty oil removed.

A good quality diesel oil was then added with the AW10 Antiwear additive. Leaving the garage, I put the air conditioner on and drove off up a long climb that always caused my truck to get very hot (without the air). This time, I noticed that not only did the temperature remain well within the operating range, I had also “Picked up a Gear”. The patrol was running as good as I have ever seen it.

Even running a long steep climb up the Calder Highway, with a tandem trailer and the air on, temperature stays well down.

The other improvement is the starting. I used to have problems, particularly on cold mornings, but now it starts first kick, never done that before.

Bill Hayes
Blaze Control Bushfire Sprinkler Systems

1984 NISSAN Patrol 3.3L Diesel

Thank you! I wish I’d used your product a lot sooner, as it has made such a big difference to my Nissan Patrol. It has 372,000k’s on the clock, but is now running as if it has a new motor. It is starting easier, and running smoother and quieter than it has in the 21yrs that I’ve owned it.  Thanks again, Tony Edwards.

Detroit Series 60

Truck fleet owner, Merv Sweetman had done 500,000km on this engine with no problems, when it suddenly started fuming badly, and started using oil at the rate of 6-7 L in 2 days. After inspecting the engine, Detroit people concluded that it needed a rebuild at a cost of $14,000. On advice from Cost Effective Maintenance, he started using FTC Decarbonizer and Flushing Oil Concentrate on a regular basis. Performance, oil control and blowby control quickly returned to normal. Now 110,000 km later, the truck is still running better than ever and no oil consumption. His Cat engines are also running better, and the oil in them stays very clean right to the change interval.

Land Rover County 110 4×4

I put flushing oil concentrate in my county 110 @ 400,000 km, and it has done an amazing job! Motor is running smooth with an increase in power of 40%. I was extremely sceptical as a mechanic, this has saved me 1000\’s$ Have looked at your product for many years, never had the guts to try it, but boy you have won me will recommend this product to any one. A huge thankyou!!!!!!!!! (David Woods)

Landcruiser 1HZ diesel (1994)

Hi Jimmy, I would like to say thankyou for the extra bit of engine oil flush. I ran the flush thru the old girl with 9 litres of clean oil for 30 mins as directed. Well over 11 litres of black gunk came out. I was totally blown away by the sludge in the bottom of the Drain Pan. I’ve added a couple of pics for your website and feel free to use my above testimony of the result. I must say my Family were impressed and will more than likely be placing an order themselves.

Once again thanks Evan yates

Landcruiser 2H Diesel

Some feedback, I have a modified 60 series Landcruiser 242,000k. Runs a 2H with turbo and have experienced some overheating problems when towing. Replaced radiator with Heavy Duty and still existed, whilst the main problem was tuning this was fixed by Brisbane Turbo and Tuning Centre. I also decided to flush the motor using your product. I was amazed by the amount of build up that came out, almost double the oil I put in. The oil is cleaner on the dip stick now. I also added the AW10 Antiwear and using the Cleanpower fuel additive and the truck is running quieter and much more responsive. All in all worth doing and I will continue to use in future. Cheers!

Nissan Patrol2.8L TD

I used the Flush to your instructions, and couldn’t believe the sludge that came out!! The motor is now running a lot smoother and staying much cooler under heavy loads now, eg towing my 2 tonne horse float. Fuel consumption has also improved, but it is too early to confirm the figures yet. Les White, Heartland Real Estate GIN GIN.

Ford Festiva, 300,000kms

John Summers (Pomona) resurrected this sad old girl, and reports that Flushing Oil Concentrate cleaned it out well, and cylinder compression rose from 60psi to 100psi in the weakest cylinders.

My 1983 MQ Nissan Patrol SWB, that I affectionately call ‘half-a-mongrel’, had 346800km’s on the clock when I put in the CEM Flushing Oil Concentrate and Cleanpower Fuel Treatment four weeks ago. Since using it, the old beast has done approximately 1200kms and really has a new lease of life. It was smokey, noisy, smelly, lacking power and using excessive fuel.

The difference is astounding. The plumes of smoke have gone. It doesn’t use the copious quantities of oil it was using. Hills that I used to have to change back to 3rd gear to get up at 60kms, I now cruise up in 4th at 90kmph+. I can now hear my radio over the engine noise. The fuel consumption has improved by approximately 20%!

I can’t wait to send you some before and after shots, you’ll be as amazed at the difference as I am. CEM products are extraordinary.

Which brings me to the reason I am writing. Should I use AW10 and/or FTC Decarbonizer now on this old ‘half-a-mongrel’ of mine? The attached photo shows you what it used to look like driving under load. That’s exhaust smoke, not dust! I am going to take it for a run up the same hill to get a new photo to compare. It won’t be anything like that.

I am sincerely impressed with your CEM products.

Datsun SD25 Diesel

For 4 years, Allan Dickson had been unable to solve an overheating problem. Despite flushing the cooling system, and fitting a larger radiator, it would always boil up the Toowoomba Range. After using FOC, it gets up the range at 70 kph (instead of 40-50 kph) without overheating. One of the functions of oil is to cool, and if flow is restricted, overheating results.

Daihatsu Rocky turbo diesel

FOC acts by cleaning the piston rings, to allow full compression to be restored. Even at 34,000km compression loss can occur.

Cyl #1 Cyl #2 Cyl #3 Cyl #4

34,000 kms 400 psi 390 psi 390 psi 400 psi

119,000 kms<

(After FOC) 460 psi 440 psi 440 psi 450 psi

Nissan 4.2TD Patrol

(Peter Simms, HUMPTYDOO NT).  Originally never ran hot, but in recent years it had become a problem. Peter had spent thousands of $$$ replacing radiators, clutch fan hubs, thermostats, chemical cleaning, etc, etc…all to no benefit, as nothing solved his overheating. In fact over the last 3 years, it just got worse & worse. The temp gauge would sit 3-4mm above the ½ way mark. Every time it ran hot, the air conditioner would cut out. After doing a web search, and finding reports of solving this problem, Peter finally tried the Flushing Oil Concentrate & Cleanpower pack. The overheating problem was immediately solved. Now at 110kph uphill, towing the quad bike trailer, and the temp stays cool. Peter also reports that after his first flush, the new oil was amber clean on the dipstick. Normally it went black straight away.

1990 2H Landcruiser Diesel

With 233,000km, top speed was 100kph, and I could only get 2000rpm flat to the floor. After following instructions for flushing the engine, it now spins to 3000rpm quickly and is gaining. Top speed is now 122kph, with more power down low, and revving out nicely through the gears. You’ve saved me from selling the Toyota, as I’ve had enough of pulling engines down in the last 30 years of 4WDing.

Hydraulic tappet noises

Robert Eckel Repairs (Charleville) use FOC to successfully reduce hydraulic lifter noise in customers vehicles.

Ray Borg

“Best engine flush in the world!” The first bottle worked wonders on the sludged up old VK Commodore, which had lost all oil pressure. It removed 6 litres of sludge. Everyone’s car I’ve used it on calls it “the magic potion”. Now the word is spreading, so could you please send me two more bottles? I can’t thank you and C.E.M. enough for your assistance and valued advice. The product is 100% true to its name!

Mazda T4100s

Best Practice Constructions run two of them. After flushing the engines with FOC, the mechanic was amazed at the amount of rubbish that came out, and even more amazed at the change in performance. “We’re getting a lot of positive feedback from our crews, and so far it’s been a cost effective solution.

Paul Mitchell

“Just thought I would drop you an email. I bought your twin products in September. I have a Nissan GU Turbo diesel Patrol which has travelled 228000 klm. It has had regular oil changes every 5000 klm. Yet the oil was always thick and ‘goey’, even after an oil change. I have now used your product twice, the first time the oil was a little cleaner and not as thick. I did another oil change after about 2000klm. This has really cleaned out the dirty oil. It is now so clean I cannot even see it on the dip stick. Well done on a product that really works. I am sure my turbo is really appreciating the new clean oil.”

Nissan Patrol 4.2 Turbo Diesel

At 190,000km, it had a rear main oil seal leak, and heavily sooted the oil when changed. After flushing with FOC, the oil leak stopped. (The problem was sump pressure from fouled piston rings.) “I now flush every second oil change and use Cleanpower every tankful. As a mechanic, I was skeptical, but am amazed at the results, and now a totally dedicated user.

Kenworth/Detroit Diesel Series 60 (475HP)

Like many modern truck diesels, these are prone to sludging up badly. FOC was run in the oil for 40 minutes before draining. From that point, the power and economy improvement was most noticeable. Fitted with oil centrifuges, about 1 cm depth of dirt would be collected at each service period. However, after the flush, there was no centrifuge dirt at all, indicating less contaminant blowby.

Navara Diesel

was so gutless, it would be down to 2nd gear on the range, with a cloud of smoke behind it, and it wouldn’t hold 5th gear on the flat. After using FOC and Cleanpower, it gets up the range in 4th gear (no smoke) and accelerates in 5th gear on the flat. Les says, “I was close to putting a match to it, but now it really is such a pleasant thing to drive again!

Landcruiser 1994 Troopy diesel

After using FOC and Cleanpower fuel treatment, the Troopy pulls an extra 200-300RPMs on my test hill.” Says Rob Leighton.